Frankenstein Amigurumi Free Pattern

Hello Amigurumi lovers,

Today we share one free amigurumi crochet pattern again for you. As you know we share new amigurumi free patterns every day. The main crochets are amigurumi gazelles, amigurumi bears, amigurumi pola, amigurumi pandas, amigurumi penguins, amigurumi giraffes, amigurumi llama, amigurumi pigs, amigurumi bunny, amigurumi clowns, amigurumi lambs, amigurumi bees, amigurumi unicorns, amigurumi dolls, amigurumi foxes, amigurumi penguins, amigurumi dinosaurs, amigurumi elephants, amigurumi hippos, amigurumi monkeys, amigurumi cats, amigurumi dogs and more …

Today I will share with you the amigurumi pattern of Frankenstein, the most well-known scary movie hero in the world. The Frankenstein doll is knitted from head to toe in almost one piece (excluding the clothes and ears). But this Frankenstein isn’t scary, it’s pretty cute. Your kids will love it very much.

I would like to thank Teresa Alvarez for this beautiful free pattern. You can find beautiful amigurumi free patterns on our site here. Let’s start 🙂

Frankenstein Amigurumi Pattern Instructions

Materials

  • Yarn.
  • Two eyes.
  • Stuffing.
  • Tapestry needle.
  • Some embroidery floss for the face’s scars in red and black and brown for the mouth.
  • A button for the trousers (optional).

*About Yarn
DMC Yarn: myboshi 50grs. 50m
o 2.8 green skeins (skin)
o 1.6 orange skeins (pullover)
o 2.5 purple skeins (trousers)
o 0.4 white skein (pants)

*** The hair and the shoes are crocheted with Alaska (Katia). Similar weight to Myboshi, skeins are bigger (100gr, 115m).
o 0.3 black skein (hair)
o 0.3 white skein (shoes)

*** The two bolts (they are placed at both sides of the head) are crocheted using a thinner yarn. I’ve used Catona by Scheepjes in gray and a 2.75mm hk.

*About Gauge
*** It is not important, as far as you are consistent with your tension

*About Hook
*** It depends on the yarn. I’ve used a 4.5 mm hook.
*** Remember that when making amigurumis, stitches should be tight.

Abbreviations

  • Stitch: st
  • Chain: ch
  • Slip stitch: sl st
  • Single crochet: sc
  • Half double crochet: hdc
  • Double crochet: dc
  • Trebble crochet : tr
  • FLO: Front Loop Only
  • BLO: Back Loop Only
  • Sc2tog: decreasing two sc (i.e., 2 st become 1)
  • Sc3tog: decreasing three sc (i.e., 3 st become 1)
  • Fsc: foundation single crochet.

Frenkenstein Amigurumi

EARS

Right Ear
Using green.

Round 1: magic ring, 6 sc (alternatively, 2 ch and 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook), sl st on first st.
Round 2: ch 1 and 2hdc, sc, 2sc, sl st in next st. Fasten off.

Left Ear
Using green.

Round 1: magic ring, 6 sc (alternatively, 2 ch and 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook), sl st on first st.
Round 2: 2sc, sc, ch 1 and 2hdc, fasten off.

Sew to head when finished shaping is required.

BOLTS (Make 2)
Using a thinner yarn and a 2.75 hk:

Round 1: magic ring, 6 sc (alternatively, 2 ch and 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook).
Round 2: 2sc in every st (12 sts)
Round 3: 12 sts in BLO
Round 4: [sc2tog, sc in 4sts] repeat 2 times (10 sts).
Round 5: sc in 3sts, sc2tog, sc in 5 sts (9sts).
Round 6-7: sc in 9sts.
Fasten off, stuff lightly. Use ends for sewing to the head.

TROUSERS
Using Purple.

The garment is crocheted from top to bottom. It is worked in spiral. (If you want a tighter fitting, ch 44).
Ch 46, sl st in first st.

Rounds 1-3: 46 sc.
Round 4: one increase and sc in remaining sts (47 sts).
Rounds 5-8: 47 scs.
Round 9: one increase and sc in remaining sts (48 sts).
Round 10: we begin working each leg separately as follows:

This is one of the legs of the trousers. For the other leg, Join yarn at any point of round 9 and
Round 10: work 27 sc (24 in sts of previous round and 3 sc in the unused loops of the 3chs worked in round 10 of the other leg).
Rounds 11-22: 27 sc. Fasten off.

Suspender / Brace (Optional)
44fsc (or as necessary). Alternatively, ch 45 and sc in foundation chain.

Trousers’ “embellishments”
Make 3, using three different colors:
Ch 5
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hk and in next 2 sts, ch 1, turn
Row 2-3: sc in 3 sts, ch 1, turn.
Fasten off and use ends to sew to trousers.

PULLOVER’S Turtle Neck/collar
Using orange.

I wanted to imitate, to mimic the knit effect of collars and cuffs. I found out that there is a ribbed half dc stitch, very easy and with spectacular results.

chain 6 and follow the tutorial for 27 rows.
Once the head and pullover are crocheted, the turtleneck can be attached to the doll:

For sewing the turtleneck to the neck’s hemline, place the ribbed neck/collar close to the head and sew or sl st the collar to the neck. Finally sew together the narrow sides and turn down the collar.

Pullover’s Hem
Using orange.
Ch 4, sc in 2nd ch f hk and in next 2 sts (3sc), ch1, turn.
Row 2-40: 3sc.
Sew to body (see previous photos).

HAIR
Using black and a 4.5mm hk.

The hair is worked turning the work at the end of each round. It is not worked in spirals.

The way in which increases are placed is as in http://amiguru.me/how-to-crochet-anoval-shape-without-counting stitches/ . A great tutorial for oval shapes!

Ch 7 (we will work both sides of the chain base)
Round 1: sc in 2nd ch f hk, sc in next 5 ch (using only one loop), 3sc in last st, sc in the unused loops of next 4 sts, 2sc in last st (i.e., what it was originally 2nd ch from hk), sl st on top of 1st st, ch 1 and turn. (14 sts).
Round 2: 3sc, 2sc, sc in 4sts, 2sc, 3sc, 2sc, sc in 4sts, 2sc, sl st on top of 1st st, ch 1 and turn (22sts).
Round 3: sc in 8sts, 2sc, 3sc, 2sc, sc in 8, 2sc, 3sc, 2sc, sl st on top of 1st st, ch 1 and turn (30sts).
Round 4: sc in 2sts, 3sc, 2sc, sc in 12sts, 2sc, 3sc, 2sc, sc in 10sts, sl st on top of 1st st, ch 1 and turn (38sts).
Round 5: sc in 12sts, 2sc, 3sc, 2sc, sc in 16, 2sc, 3sc, 2sc, sc in 4sts, sl st on top of 1st st, ch 1 and turn (46sts).
Round 6: sc in 6sts, 2sc, 3sc, 2sc, sc in 20, 2sc, 3sc, 2sc, sc in 14sts, sl st on top of 1st st, ch 1 and turn (54sts).
Round 7-10: 54 sc, sl st on top of 1st st, ch 1 and turn (54sts). (round 10, do not make the last ch 1).
Rounds 11 to 18 are not proper rounds, they are rows. We shape the hair here (peaks).

Row 11 will begin here. If for any reason your round 10 doesn’t finish there, fasten off and join yarn there.
Row 11: [ch 5, sc in 2nd ch, hdc in 3rd ch, dc in 4th ch, tr in 5th ch, sk 4 sts and sl st in next st, ch 4, sc in 2nd ch, hdc in 3rd ch, dc in 4th ch, sk 3 sts and sl st in next st] repeat 2 times, sc in remaining 36 sts, turn.
Row 12: ch 4, sc in 2nd ch, hdc in 3rd ch, dc in 4th ch, sk 3 sts and sl st in next st, sc in 33sts, turn.
Row 13: ch 4, sc in 2nd ch, hdc in 3rd ch, dc in 4th ch, sk 3 sts and sl st in next st, sc in 28sts, turn.
Row 14: ch 4, sc in 2nd ch, hdc in 3rd ch, dc in 4th ch, sk 3 sts and sl st in next st, sc in 23sts, turn.
Row 15: ch 4, sc in 2nd ch, hdc in 3rd ch, dc in 4th ch, sk 3 sts and sl st in next st, sc in 18sts, turn.
Row 16: ch 4, sc in 2nd ch, hdc in 3rd ch, dc in 4th ch, sk 3 sts and sl st in next st, sc in 13sts, turn.
Row 17: ch 4, sc in 2nd ch, hdc in 3rd ch, dc in 4th ch, sk 3 sts and sl st in next st, sc in 8sts, turn.
Row 18: ch 4, sc in 2nd ch, hdc in 3rd ch, dc in 4th ch, sk 3 sts and sl st in next st, ch 3, sc in 2nd ch, hdc in 3rd ch, sk 2sts, sl st in next st.
Fasten off. Use end to sew to head.

HEAD, BODY, ARMS AND LEGS
The doll is work almost in one piece from head to feet working in spirals.
Using green and a 4.5mm hk.

Remember to stuff Frankenstein as you go or when it is more convenient for you.

The first four rounds are worked as explained in http://amiguru.me/how-to-crochetan-oval-shape-without-counting stitches/ . A great tutorial for oval shapes! Just one thing: in the tutorial, in round 1 it is said turn the work, what it means is work the unused loops of the foundation chain.

Ch 7 (we will work both sides of the base chain)
Rounds 1-4: worked as in the amiguru.me tutorial. There are 38 sts at the end of round 4.
Round 5: (increases are placed in the normal/usual way)[2sc, sc in 4] 6 times, [2sc sc in 3] 2 times (46sts)
Round 6: [sc, 2s, sc in 4] 6 times, [sc, 2sc, sc in 3] 2 times (54sts)
Round 7: [sc in 4, 2sc, sc in 4] 6 times (60sts)
Round 8-25: 60 sts.
Round 26: [sc2tog, sc in 8] 6 times (54 sts)
Round 27: [sc 3, sc2tog, sc in 4] 6 times (48 sts)
Round 28: [sc2tog, sc in 6] 6 times (42 sts)
Round 29: [sc 2, sc2tog, sc in 3] 6 times (36 sts)
Round 30: [sc2tog, sc in 4] 6 times (30 sts)
Round 31: 30sts.

At this point, the hair can be sewn to the head, eyes placed, nose and mouth embroidered. Ears and bolts sewn. And also the scars can be embroidered.
Increases at rounds 32, 33 and 34 are placed at the sides of the neck (these increases will form the shoulders)

Round 32: 40sts placing 5 increases at each side (as in graph).

Change to orange and work in blo.
Round 33: 50 sts placing 5 increases at each side: 2sc, sc, 2sc 3 times, sc and 2sc (instead of placing the 5 increases together, we make increase, no increase, 3 increases, no increase, increase).
Round 34: 60 sts, placing the increases at the sides but … [2sc, sc] 4 times and 2sc.
Rounds 35-37: 60 sts.
Round 38: 64 sts, placing two increases at each side: 2sc, sc in 3, 2sc.
Round 39: 70 sts, placing three increases at each side: 2sc, sc, 2sc, sc, 2sc.
Round 40: we have:

So I’m renumbering round 40 as round 1 for body, and arms. Depending on where you have finished your round 39, you will be working the left arm (yellow circle), the body (green circle) or the right arm (blue circle).

What it really matters is that if you are in the yellow circle you need to work 16 sts, sk56 st in the first round of the arm.

If you are in the green circle (as it was my case), you will work 38 sts and sk 16st and 16 sts (arms).

And if you are in the blue circle, you will work very similarly to the yellow circle.

Body
Go on using orange and working in blo.

Round 1: work 38sc, skipping the arms’ stitches (38 sts).
Round 2: 40 sts, placing one increase at both sides off the body.
Round 3: 44 sts, placing 2 increases at each side of the body: 2sc, sc in 2, 2sc.
Round 4-6: 44 sts.
Sl st in 3 sts (I like to do this to camouflage the change to a different color). Change to green.

Round 7: work in blo 44 sts.
Rounds 8-9: 44 sts working in both loops.

Change to white and work again in blo.

Rounds 10-14: 44 sts.
Round 15: [sc2tog, sc in 9] 4 times. (40sts)

Comment: we need to finish this round at the center of the back, you can leave some stitches of the wound unworked or work a sixteenth round until you reach the middle of the back.

(Body is finished, and legs begin)

At this point you can go on working the legs or pause, and work both arms and come back here for the legs and feet later on.

Legs
We Have:

Round 1: work 20 sc (from the body) and 4sc in one of the loops of the chains just worked. (24 sts).
Round 2: work 24 sts, but when you reach the inner part of the leg change to green and begin working in both loops.
Round 3: 24 sts.
Round 4: one decrease: 23 sts
Round 5: one decrease: 22 sts.
Rounds 6-13: 22 sts.

(Now if you want Frankie to have socks, you can follow the striped sequence or make them in one color or no socks at all!)

From now on, we will be working in the blo alternating rounds in purple and in orange. We will have a spiral effect in two colors. The process of leaving/dropping the loop will be made in all the rounds.

Round 14: purple, work 22 sts, drop/leave loop and
Round 15: join orange and work 22 sts, drop loop and
Round 16: work 22 sts in purple, drop loop
Round 17: work 22 sts in orange, drop loop
Round 18: work 22 sts in purple, drop loop
Round 19: work 22 sts in orange, drop loop
Round 20: purple: four increases at the front (shaping the foot). A total of 26 sts.
Round 21: orange: four increases at the front (shaping the foot). A total of 30 sts.
Round 22: purple, 30 sts.
Round 23: orange: 30 sts.
Round 24: purple, 30 sts.
Stuff leg and foot
Round 25: orange, 6 decreases: [sc2tog, sc in 3] 6 times. (24sts)
Round 26: purple, 6 decreases: [sc2tog, sc in 2] 6 times.(18 sts)
Round 27: orange, 6 decreases: [sc2tog, sc in 1] 6 times. (12sts)
Round 28: purple, 6 decreases: [sc2tog] 6 times.(6 sts)
Fasten off the orange and the purple loops and weave ends.

Arms and hands(left and right are worked in the same way)
Join yarn at any side (that belongs to the arms!)
Working in orange and in blo.
Round 1: 17 sts place an increase at the outer side of the arm.
Round 2: 18 sts place an increase at the outer side of the arm.
Rounds 3-4: 18 sts: placing an increase at the outer side of the arm and one decrease at the inner side of the arm.
Rounds 5-8: 18 sts.
If desired 2 or 3 sl sts and
Change to green
Round 9: blo, [sc2tog, sc] 6 times (12 sts)
Round 10: 12 sts
Round 11: 2sc in every st (24 sts)
Round 12: 24 sts
Round 13: [sc2tog, sc in 2] 6 times (18 sts)
Round 14: [sc2tog, sc] 6 times (12 sts)
Round 15: [sc2tog] 6 times (6 sts)

SHOES (Make 2)
Using black and 4.5 mm hk.
Round 1: magic ring, 6 sc (alternatively, 2 ch and 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook).
Round 2: 2sc in next 6 st, (12 sts)
Round 3: [2sc, sc in st] repeat 6 times (18st)
Round 4: [2sc, sc in 2st] repeat 6 times (24st)
Round 5: [2sc, sc in 3st] repeat 6 times (30st)
Round 6: 30 sts in blo.
Change to gray and work in both loops.
Rounds 7-10: 30 sts.
Round 11: sc in 11, [sc2tog] 4 times, sc in 11. (26 sts)
Round 12: sc in 9, [sc2tog] 4 times, sc in 9. (22 sts).
Fasten off and weave ends.
If desired sew/place laces as in photo.

Finishing
Sew all the pieces and bits of the clothes, weave ends and ENJOY!

More Frankenstein Amigurumi Ideas

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